Archive for ‘Kyrgyzstan’

April 24th, 2010

Learning Like a Child: Host Family Flashback Part 2

For seven long weeks I lasted as a regular in the Kyrgyz family. Somehow, now when I think back, I don’t know how I did it.

Some days were more trying than others. As a complete newbie to Russian, I quickly realized just how much brain power I expended at my lessons constantly thinking, translating and deciphering all day long. When I came home, I simply didn’t have it in me to struggle with the family. Instead, I would take to my room and start on my hours of homework, which of course was not fun, but it was very necessary in the beginning.

Dinner was generally ready around 7pm, at which point I was awakened from my homework-induced space-out session by a cute little girl shouting, “Brooooke, kushat!

After thanking my happy little caller for her notice, I would stumble out to the living room and help prepare the table for food. The dynamics of the family situation were very strange to me, for quite some time, and preparing the table and babysitting were some of the few duties I ever had to carry out. Maybe since I was paying to live there they felt the need to treat me more like a guest than a member of the household, meaning the mother felt the need to always serve me even when I offered to help.

So, serve me she did, along with the other two children. Yes, I said it; in my role of trying to learn the Russian language like a child, I had actually become like a third child to this woman. And, I could see it in her eyes – when she asked me where I was going, when I would be back, and also when she had to ask me the same questions over and over again until I could respond – she felt like she was my mother.

Yep, just like her third, older and yet somewhat more retarded child, I sat at the dinner table getting the same reactions to my lack of speedy responses as both Mira and Rasul, who were simply unruly four and seven year olds.

Really, there are a million and one ways I could explain just how incredibly child-like I felt in those couple months with them, but none so vividly do the point justice than this following incident:

Let’s flash back to the moment that I walked in on poor Mira in the bathroom. I know, more toilet humor on this blog; it’s just what you were looking for, right? Well, I feel like I need to explain the setting a little bit better. See, the toilet in that bathroom was actually on a little platform, making it a little taller than normal toilets. Therefore, after sitting down, you could not help but have to deal with your pants falling completely to your ankles when you have to basically jump down in order to get off the toilet.

I guess it’s hard to explain without drawing a picture, but I feel that might be a little too much toilet imagery, which could very well take this blog to a new low. I’ll leave it at this: What seems so simple in a normal bathroom setting was made just a little bit more difficult in this situation because of the added height. That was one of the things I quickly learned.

The second thing I learned was that apparently the door to the bathroom doesn’t really lock when you might think otherwise.

Yes, my reader friends, I was just about to grab my pants that were so low at my ankles when I heard a jiggling of the door handle. My mind went into panic mode.

Jiggle, jiggle… What do I do? What do I say?!

The moment happened at a normal door opening speed, but to me it was in slow motion. I wanted to say, “Stop!” in Russian, but I forgot the word under pressure (strange considering I had to use it every day on the marshrutka). I wanted to scream it out in English, but of course I was in this limbo period where I was so used to trying not to say something in English that even that couldn’t come out.

No words. Only a small yell as the door started to swing would remove itself from my lips, but it was too late. There was not enough time to pull my jeans back to their proper position…

… and there I was, stuck like a deer in the headlights as my host mother realized someone was in the bathroom already… me.

My eyes were probably 10 times their normal size as I tried to cover myself. My host mother, too, was in shock, but laughed as she closed the door again.

I had a flashback to poor little Mira standing there the same way maybe not a week before, only I was on the other end. This time, I was the child, and as corny as that sounds, it was just so suiting to the way I felt living there and not being able to communicate.

This is Part 2 of a 2 part series on learning like a child. If you missed Part 1, click back now. Don’t forget to subscribe to my RSS feed so you never miss a post!

If you want to learn more about language study abroad, check out the guest blog post I did for Runaway Jane: Language Study Abroad – How to Make the Most of It.

April 19th, 2010

Learning Like a Child: Host Family Flashback Part 1

When a language is just so different from your native tongue, the best thing you can do is to forget about any preconceived notions you have about language structure and just attempt to learn it like a child.

I learned my lesson the hard way – by spending countless portions of class time hounding my poor teachers as to why things were said one way in English, but another in crazy – and irregular – Russian. How was I ever to learn this difficult language if I couldn’t put my own thoughts into Russian words?

I was getting frustrated. I spent 5 hours a day, 4 days a week, sitting in a classroom at the London School in Bishkek getting bombarded with sounds and characters all too foreign to me; still, I felt like I was unable to portray my thoughts to my host family back home who were seriously beginning to question whether I was even going to my lessons in the first place. It was a struggle.

Before heading to Kyrgyzstan, I was totally against the idea of living with a host family since I know I am the type of person that needs a bit of personal space. However, my decision changed after arriving at my first lesson to see just how overwhelming this new language was going to be. The truth was I didn’t see myself getting anywhere in the coming months unless I took drastic measures, which at the time involved sucking up my personal preferences and trading them in for a cute little Kyrgyz family.

Even though I was just a handful in years younger than my host parents, I quickly became closer to the 4 year old and 7 year old children because of our language capabilities. Whenever the parents spoke, I just took on that deer in the headlights expression and wanted to run away to my room to scavenge a dictionary or pretend I was asleep. The children… they were perfect. I started watching them, and looking to them for my queue.

Honestly, they were just what I needed. Since they were so basic, I was able to associate the words I was learning in class to when they should be used in real-life. Even though I wasn’t making huge strides those first couple of weeks, I finally realized that looking at the language from a child’s perspective truly helped me gain my footing in Russian. I had to drop what I thought about my own language, and just start anew.

In the process, I somehow managed to strike up a bond with Mira, the 4 year old. At least that’s what I think it was. She would follow me around, crawl across my lap and even lick my arms (she had an unhealthy obsession with licking stuff… the table, the bag of mayonnaise, people). We would play together a bit with her dolls, or watch Ninja Turtles dubbed into Russian. I don’t think we said much ever, but there was never a need to get too detailed. The joys of being 4, right?

And then one day I was given the lovely duty of babysitting. Perfect. My absolute favorite thing to do (not really), especially when the children speak another language. Wasn’t their mother afraid something might happen and I wouldn’t be able to effectively communicate in order to get help?

Luckily, the time passed without a hitch. The only thing I wish I had done beforehand was go through my vocabulary and figure out how to say, “Oops, I’m sorry I barged in on you in the bathroom with your pants down. My bad,” in Russian.

I will never forget the little girl’s face as I opened the unlocked bathroom door. She stood there with the widest eyes, both jaw and pants touching the ground. Not a word was said; I quickly shut the door in a panic and stood there until I could remember how to say I was sorry. It definitely wouldn’t be the last time I wished I could remember how to quickly respond in Russian while living in that house…

…but that’s another story, and it will have to wait until next time.

Be sure to check back on Friday for Part 2, or just subscribe to my feed to be notified automatically via email or feed reader.

February 11th, 2010

My 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets

I have recently been nominated by Linda Fairbairn of Journey Jottings to participate in the “3 Best Kept Travel Secrets” project. I’m happy to finally get to take my turn, and if you like what I have to say, why not subscribe to my feed?

 

1.) Overnight in a Yurt on Lake Issyk-Kul, Kyrgyzstan

Yurts in the Morn'n

Get an authentic feel for the nomadic lifestyle by spending a night or two in a yurt on Lake Issyk-Kul. These yurts come with bedding, and for a small price, a feast (no less) for dinner and breakfast! If you don’t know what plov is, you will get your fill here.

Laze the day away on the beach, and relax under the clearest night sky watching falling star after falling star pass by.

2.) Phallic Statue Garden in Vilnius, Lithuania

Yes, near this lovely, artistically painted house in Vilnius lies a secret garden… full of phallic statues. And, it is not so much secret as it is just off the road a bit. Either way, it is still an interesting place to chill out next to, perhaps with a snack, in view of a small flowing creek and these lovely odes to manhood.

With landmarks such as these, it is no wonder why Vilnius was voted the 2009 European Capital of Culture. Yet, even without these phallic statues I would recommend it as a European stopover to anyone.

3.) The 7 Lighthouses of Menorca, Spain

Menorca is a small, Spanish island that is near and dear to my heart. No, I said Menorca, not Majorca. Menorca is the smaller and less-visited neighbor, but I happened to spend an entire month there while taking part in an archaeological field school.

There are 7 lighthouses spread around the outskirts of the island that make for great sightseeing points. Simply rent a car for a day and off you go!

I am now nominating 5 new bloggers to share their own travel secrets:

November 2nd, 2009

Kyrgyz Drink Video Backlash

CIMG0709I used to make some videos every now and again for my blog, which I’d like to get back into doing, and I generally promote them on vimeo and also upload them to YouTube. I wouldn’t say I’m a successful video maker – they rarely get views, I make them with my pocket camera, and they never get comments… except for my Kyrgyz related videos.

I got two notifications today from YouTube about new comments on my Taste Testing Shoro video (below), and of course they are from a pissed off Kyrgyz individual who took the time to leave a comment in both English and Russian.

If you take a look at the comments, most of them have been negative in some way or another, and some comments have even been removed now – not sure why. It’s quite impressive the amount of comments received in respect to the number of actual video views. I knew that they really loved Shoro, but I never knew they would take so much offense to my reaction.

Is it bad that I don’t like this drink? No, I don’t think so. To me, it is a weird taste and not a flavor I had been introduced to before. It is not uncommon for people from other cultures to not understand the food and drink choices of another because they just aren’t accustomed to them. To me, Shoro was weird. It was sour and gritty… like really gritty – almost like drinking old beer that had sand in it. And, yes, the slight fermentation smelled like stale beer, or at least that was the closest thing I could associate it with. I tried it twice, downing an entire cup to give it a go, but it just wasn’t for me.

“facking american ass.holes we have a national drinks u dont !!!!!!! cuz history of ur country 500 years, ours- 2200 years ! morons !”

It’s unfortunate that this person had to take this video to another level. If only they knew how much I loved Kyrgyzstan and the Kyrgyz culture. I may not like the drink, but it doesn’t mean that I don’t like them.

January 15th, 2009

What has been the best year of your life?

In one of my conversation clubs in school here in Ukraine, I asked my students what the best year of their life has been. Questions like these, followed with a simple, “Why?”, are a great way to get them all to talk (my main goal for my classes), while also killing a ton of class time. However, a lot of the time they like to turn it around and ask me the same thing, so after thinking for just a few seconds, I confidently answered:

“It has definitely been 2008.”

“Why?” they asked (They also probably thought this was a good way to kill class time!).

I felt kind of odd answering their question. Imagine trying to explain to people in Ukraine, most of whom have never even left their own country, that travel has been the most amazing thing you have ever done. Instead of rambling on about my travel lust, I tried to keep it short and sweet and save all the details for my lovely readers (that’s you!). So, here are some of the wonderful reasons why 2008 was so great!

1. I got to travel… A lot!

In 2008, I saw many different countries: Guatemala, Mexico, Honduras, Poland, Ukraine, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, and Hungary.

In the grand scheme of things, that probably doesn’t seem like much. It was a whole year, afterall! But, I like to think my approach to travel is still just as interesting as those people who are taking on the whole world in a single year. Don’t get me wrong – I love to be on the move (I miss it right now actually!), but hitting up a major site for just one long weekend doesn’t quite give you the perspective I’m looking for. What happens when people go back to work and all the tourists go back home? How does life look then?

2. I did some interesting things!

3. I met some amazing people!

The people you meet on the road really make it something special – they set the tone, and even shape the memories of a place forever. Travel with someone for a few weeks, or few days even, and you feel like you’ve known them forever. I would say I’ve been lucky to have encountered such interesting and wonderful friends from my travels – all the way from my Bishkek Crew and my Baltic Gang to my now Ukraine Posse. Yup, lucky. Last year will forever be shaped by the people I’ve laughed with, cried with, smiled at, hid from, been annoyed with, been surpised by, dreamed with, dreamed about, hated, and loved.

4. I learned a lot about myself!

As cheesy as it sounds, I did learn a lot about myself during my year of travels. Well, maybe learned isn’t quite the word I’m looking for. Perhaps notions about myself, and the way I am and deal with life, became fact in my mind. No, there were no life-changing, earth-shaking discoveries, but I would say I have a better understanding of where I stand.

Cheers to the good and the bad! Nothing is perfect. In spite of all its amazingness, 2008 still had its breaking points. Oh, I’ve been all over the place. I’ve been up, down, left, right – happy, sad, you name it. Maybe I’ve been good at times at hiding such things from my blogging life, but maybe other times I haven’t. Heck, I sometimes even forget that people are actually reading this! But, what else can I say? I wouldn’t change any of those experiences or decisions in 2008 because without them, where would I be now?

What about you? What has been the best year of your life? I’d love to hear back from my readers! ;)

August 25th, 2008

Plane Crash in Kyrgyzstan

According to MSN news, 65 people died today when a plane crashed near the Manas Airport in Kyrgyzstan. It was very scary to hear about this news since there was already rumors about the safety of different airlines that come in and out of K-Stan. Stories heard from fellow students in Bishkek about the creepy plane they rode back from Osh, or when others coined it “Tragic Air” instead of “Tajik Air”, definitely leave a feeling of anxiety in the pit of my stomach. At least you’ll be happy to know I’m flying back to Kazakhstan on KLM, which is a pretty reputable European based airline.

You can read more about the tragedy at this link.

August 20th, 2008

Central Asian TidBits Buffet

In an attempt to be caught-up and on-the-ball upon my return abroad in September, I’ve decided to combine all these little ideas for individual blog posts into one smorgasbord of interesting bits. So, here you have it! What I’ve learned, loved, lacked and l-acquired (?) while in Central Asia.

bishkek at night

Snot Rockets in Paradise:

If said more than a few times in the past, but I am super, super, super germaphobic. I hate the idea of eating off other people, with a passion, once that may have even brought me to tears. Something about the thought of someone else’s slimy saliva sitting on my food, or the idea of getting sick from their germs… ugh… well it makes me cringe. I came a long way during my time in K-Stan, and sometimes I am able to block this fear out of my head completely and just dig in. (I only said sometimes…)

Well if this wasn’t bad enough, there are definitely other parts of the culture I find a bit on the disgusting end of the spectrum. Watch out when you’re walking behind some local guys. Let’s just say they have a tendency to spit or blow snot rockets off to the side, and if you’re in the right place, you just might get caught in the crossfire.

Plastic Bag Much?

In Bishkek, a city where the majority of people commute by public transport, or just plain walking, locals need a way to carry items to work, school, etc. The funny part about this is they choose to do so in a plastic bag. Everyone has a plastic bag. They are so popular you can even buy them at little kiosks with their own local brand names. Erica hit the jackpot when she bought a plastic bag displaying a picture of an eagle with the line, “Protect Feral Animal” on it. You have to love those great English translations.

Meet the Family:

The Kyrgyz are definitely quick to take you as a part of their own family, and one such experience stands out in my mind. Ryan and I were finishing dinner in the apartment when I heard someone shouting outside, “Do you speak English?!”

I popped my head out the balcony and looked up to see my upstairs neighbor hanging his head out of the window. After a short exchange, he invited us up to his apartment, where we were fed lagman (yum!), introduced to his entire family, and then made part of said family. How nice!

Going Local:

There’s a term the students at the London School liked to use when a foreigner comes in and then starts worrying about a price difference of 5 soms, or starts to enjoy local beverages. When this happens, they’ve “gone local”.

kumiz

Remember that poll I had about drinking fermented mare’s milk? Let me refresh your memory:

(I have since omitted polls since redoing my site, but let’s just say that the majority of people did not want to drink fermented mare’s milk.)

The drink is actually called Kumiz and is as disgusting as it sounds. But, when you are at a table of foreigners with a pitcher of this stuff in the middle, and a table of local Kyrgyz look at it and say, “I want what they’re having,” you know you’ve done it. You’ve gone local.

When it’s hot, it’s hot!

I had heard stories of the heat in Bishkek, but didn’t believe it would actually be that bad until one day it reached 110 degrees while I was living on the 8th floor of an apartment building without air conditioning. I wanted to die.

Maybe High Heels DO Look Good With… Everything?

Another student told me a fairly bad joke that goes a little something like this:

Q – How can you spot the Russian woman at the beach?
A – She’s the one in the high heels.

I don’t know how those girls over there do it, but they are always sporting a pair – rain or shine! And just like worrying over 5 soms, in time I began to think, “Hey, maybe those heels would go good with my bathing suit.” No, I don’t have a pair yet, but give it time people.

Bishkek – Nightlife Hotspot?

No, not really. But, there are a few places to go after nightfall for some action, take for instance, the Golden Bull where we found this Kyrgyz stripper/flame dancer.

stripper

Where Everyone Knows Your Name:

I flew out of Almaty, Kazakhstan to come home, and that involved yet another Kyrgyz-Kazakh border crossing experience. I had all of my stuff with me (I have acquired a LOT while in Bishkek), so the taxi driver let me keep my bag in the back of the taxi and explain to the border guys what was actually in it so I didn’t have to carry it. As I was standing there talking to one, I heard another from behind say my name.

Crap. I turned around to see a familiar face – one of the ten border guards that I dealt with back in June. He started asking me why I hadn’t called Rinat back, and when I would come back, etc. I got out of that one by saying I needed to go have my passport stamped, but as I was walking out I was shouted at to see my backpack.

Lies. All lies. He didn’t want to see my bag. He wanted to verify with my passport that I was in fact that American girl that Rinat was desperately phoning the previous month or so before. Wow.

Room for seconds? Keep checking back…

August 15th, 2008

Landlady from Hell

Brooke at the Window

There is no doubt that I truly despised my landlady in Bishkek. Landlord was not so bad, but ever since his putting the body in the freezer day he was few and far between. Landlady, on the other hand, made her presence quite known. I found her quite annoying!

Even before I officially lived in the apartment, she got on my nerves. For no reason at all she would stop by, budge her way in and start snooping. It didn’t matter what we were doing – watching a movie, cooking – she would stay for an extended and awkward time, and then use our phone before heading out (yeah, we paid that bill, too).

mountains from apartment

When I officially moved into the apartment, she would only ask to speak with Ryan on the phone. Well, that’s fine because his Russian is amazing unlike mine. Well, Ryan left at the beginning of July, which left Liam and I to deal with her craziness. The day before rent was due, she made it known that we owed $150 dollars more than we thought we owed. After having a very long and horrible shouting match on the phone (in Russian by the way), I told her I needed to speak with Liam before proceeding. He then proceeded to call her and set up a meeting at the apartment to calculate why we owe $100 for utilities (it is usually around 500 soms) and $50 more for rent (when we previously agreed on the set amount). Well when we did the calculating, we came to the fact that we only owed about 500 soms ($15) for utilities, and that’s what we paid. Ha, landlady! Try taking advantage of me again!

Even after this very awkward incident, she proceeded to phone us all the time, many times in a row. She actually EXPECTED us to WANT to help her learn English… for FREE… even after she tried to rip us off of all that money! WTF?! I stopped answering the phone.

Then, the final day I was there I was expecting a call from her, but this was ridiculous. I was walking out of Ramstore with some food and heading home. I saw her on my phone ID, but decided I would just phone her back after I got home. The walk takes seriously less than 20 minutes, but this crazy insane Kyrgyz woman called me 15 times. FIFTEEN times!!!!!!! Then, to make it just a bit more interesting, I walked into the apartment to find her and landlord chilling on the couch in the living room with my couchsurfer (who doesn’t speak a lick of Russian). I mean really?! Who is THAT crazy to just call and call and call and call like that?!

So, they wanted to know when I was leaving so they could get the apartment keys. I was planning on leaving early in the morning in order to avoid the heat, so I said I would try and leave at 7am. However, I offered to just leave the keys on the table and push the special bolt lock button (the one that caused great troubles before for us because we don’t have a key for it). Erica was also with me and offered to bring the keys to them since she was coming in the morning to get some stuff from me anyways. The landlady took her number in her cell phone as if this was the preferred method, but before they left she agreed for me to just leave the keys on the table and push the weird bolt lock button – MEANING – I would not have to leave at any specific time in the morning (I wouldn’t be meeting them in person for a key exchange) and it was completely UNNECESSARY for Erica to give her phone number to her.

“Oh man, Erica. That crazy lady has your number now!” I said. “What a sneaky crazy woman!”

Later that evening, I checked the weather and found out that it was NOT going to be super hot the next day. With that in mind, and the fact that I no longer had to meet with the landlords at any specific time for a key exchange, Erica and I stayed up all night having an early 90s dance party and eating watermelon instead of packing up the apartment. To my dismay, I awoke at 6:40am to the Landlord at the door waiting for the key!!!! He looked at me in shock and said, “You said 7.” I wanted to scream.

At this moment, I phoned Erica and hopped in the shower quickly because he was in the living room waiting for me to leave. We loaded up the taxi with ALL the items that were bought for the apartment because I absolutely did not want these people to have ANYTHING of value after I left. I gave our stuff (bedding, dishes, etc.) to Erica to disperse as necessary to other people. I did, however, leave them a cell phone that could not be unlocked in Kyrgyzstan, a broken suitcase full of Ryan’s old socks, and some juice. Ugh, I am so glad to be done with that, but I do miss our place.

August 8th, 2008

Bizarre Bazaar Finds

Walmart, McDonald’s, and Stop n Shop’s do not exist here (although Narodnie is an excellent little grocery store) in K-Stan. So, when I want to buy something not of designer quality, I head to the bazaar – a place I love, a place I hate… a place I simply love to hate!

Shopping at the bazaar used to be an insanely overwhelming experience, but now that normalcy has set in after a few months in Central Asia, I find them quite pleasurable (I’ll go there when I’m bored just to look around), and sometimes very amusing. Here I would like to share a few of the amazing finds that just make me giggle:

I’m an XXL?!

When wanting to add a pair of underwear to my wardrobe, I went to the underwear aisle to find a suitable piece. When the lady asked me my size I told her I was American and did not know for sure according to their labels. She pulled out a Large and said it was the normal size here.

I stood there for a few minutes looking at the very tiny piece of material held in front of my eyes. That’s normal?! It was at that moment that I looked around and quickly addressed the fact that these Asian and Russian girls have NO HIPS whatsoever, and I with my American-sized caboose am a bazaar panties size XXL. Go me.

The best T-shirt ever!

Since I only arrived in Bishkek with 2 t-shirts, I desperately needed more to add to my tiny wardrobe, especially when it started getting warm outside. I just couldn’t pass this one up when I found it.

dry cleaning shirt

“It’s timeta take your heart on the thing for dry cleaning. The dry cleaning service vanderful your winter clohets. Your dry cleaning service wonderful suggestions.”

My new kicks!

my new kicks

Yes, these shoes are on my feet. I simply couldn’t take my eyes off of them – just look at all the colors!

Toothpaste or propaganda?

white power

While browsing through the Chinese market, I came across this toothpaste. Instead of it reading “Whitening Power”, it simply states “White Power”. I have since seen this brand in the normal supermarkets so it is not indigenous to just the bazaars, but still deserves a shout-out.

Cheap Tupperware!

I just love all the Chinese products that make it over here with horrible English on it. Just take a look at this Tupperware.

storage container

“Cook should use convenient and smart kitchenware. Because good tool bring great pleasure in cooking. And cooking with pleasure bring delicious food.”

Well it is good to know that my cooking will be good when I use these!

And so conclude my bizarre bazaar finds thus far, but don’t you worry… There’s plenty more where that came from.

July 19th, 2008

Lake Issyk-Kul

If you’re the least bit familiar with the country of Kyrgyzstan, then you most likely know a little bit about the infamous Lake Issyk-Kul. I started hearing stories back in May of the lake’s power, especially in the months of July and August when the Bishkek heat can be almost unbearable (as I am currently finding out now!).

What they don’t tell you about is the gruesome history this amazingly beautiful land contains. Stories of Cyanide poisoning and nuclear testing (?) have been brought up on many occasions. Eep!

A few weeks ago, my good friends here and I decided we should head out there before they leave me lonely in Bishkek. We stayed the night in a yurt, feasted ourselves on plov until we thought we would explode, and baked at the beach. Here is a little video of our time spent there, taking a dip in the icy waters of a former cyanide infected, nuclear tested lake. Enjoy!



An Adventure to Lake Issyk-Cold from Brooke Schoenman on Vimeo.