Posts tagged ‘Kiev’

March 22nd, 2009

Chest X-Ray, Anyone?

When talking to my mom the other day on Skype, she asked me how my trip of a lifetime was going. The interesting part was that she wasn’t asking about traveling around the world. She was asking about Australia – a place that has struck my fancy since I can remember. I made it here; I made it happen. I left Ukraine and am now basking in the perfectly blue skies of Sydney, but it wasn’t an easy task. Let me tell you something about Ukraine – it doesn’t give up without a fight.

I think every attempt I ever made to get out of that place, even just for a quick trip, was made a little more difficult in some way or another. After applying for visa sponsorship and buying my plane ticket to Australia, I was bombarded with the question asking if I had spent more than 3 consecutive months outside my home country, and, if so, to list those countries.

That’s where I started to get a little nervous. I began listing countries like Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Ukraine in my response. Was it going to be a problem getting a visa now?!

Apparently, the countries I had spent the majority of the previous year living in are considered quite dodgy. Actually, they are considered so dodgy that they weren’t even on the list of dodgy countries to begin with! It just said: “If the country is not listed here, then it is considered Very High Risk.”

D’oh! So, of course I was given yet another difficult task to complete: obtaining a chest x-ray… in Ukraine… by the one certified doctor they would accept the x-ray from. Oi!

homer xray

Luckily, I was able to get an appointment right away, but I had to frantically search all the money changers in my vicinity to find US dollars to pay for the appointment with. Why, if it is so difficult to find US dollars in Kiev these days, does the place ONLY accept US dollars as payment?!

After that, I had to find my way to the Oil Refinery Hospital on the other side of town in a place where the Metro didn’t run.

Then, I had to deal with the x-ray process in itself, a process I will not soon forget. Picture a typical Soviet style hospital – stark feeling with a bad paint job of the most unappealing colors. The hallway was the waiting room, and it was packed full of Ukrainians waiting for their own exams to take place.

When I was called into the dark x-ray room, I was taken to a section with a metal screen. The woman in there motioned for me to take my sweater off. I hadn’t really thought about the needing to undress for this. After that, she motioned for me to take my undershirt off. As I stood there in my bra, she proceeded to twirl me around until I was facing a large mechanical screen on the wall. She stroked my hair in her hands, eventually tying it up in a ponytail.

“Well this isn’t so bad,” I thought.

Just then she yanked my bra straps down, so suddenly I gasped in shock. I was somehow given a protective shield to hold behind my back while my chest was pressed directly up against the cold screen. My chin rested on top where the smell of saliva and sweat lingered from all the people who did the same just minutes before. “Just great,” I thought. “If I wasn’t sick before, I probably will be now.”

I was told to fill my lungs with air just before the lady ran out of the room. Some lights flashed and then it was over. I put my clothes back on and went into another room to see what the doctor had to say. When she finally arrived with my x-ray, she looked at it for about 30 seconds and then spurted out, “You’re fine. Bye!” in a stern tone.

What was I fine from exactly? I still don’t know. I got over another hurdle and became one step closer to where I am now. Big Sigh Of Relief!

January 6th, 2009

Well hello there, 2009! Guest blogging, travel planning, and more!

With only one word to describe 2009, I think I would have to go with sneaky. Yes, 2009 – you little sneak, you – you are definitely here now in full-force, but only after giving me quite the impressive surprise party on New Year’s Eve. Thank you, Kiev, for that one. The twenty minute fireworks display and the free concert thereafter was amazing!

Sure, it was never my plan to stay in Kiev for New Year’s, but now I’m glad I did. We had a lot of fun running around downtown, which was probably helped by the Ukrainian approach to vodka we decided to take in the process.

Yep, we took shots of vodka on the escalator… (please don’t mind the hideous picture of me)

escalator vodka

In the phone booth…

phonebooth vodka

In the bathroom…

bathroom vodka

And then some…

and then some

Luckily, it was still a memorable experience for me :-)

So, here we are in 2009. It’s hard to believe that I actually started blogging about travel planning back in 2006, but my archives tell all. Actually, travel planning has been a huge part of my life since I can remember. Whenever I learned about a family trip when I was younger, my suitcase was always packed at least a week in advance in anticipation!

I recently wrote a guest blog post for Viscape about such travel planning experiences and New Year’s travel resolutions, which was just published today. Make sure to check it out here:

I Want to Leave in 2009? New Year’s Travel Resolutions!

And, as for my New Year’s travel resolutions…?

I don’t think I want to spoil all the excitement just yet, but you know me – I usually have something up my sleeve. Let’s just say I see 2009 getting very interesting ;)

Happy New Year!

October 29th, 2008

Into the Depths of Kyiv

This post will be short and sweet because I merely want to showcase Kyiv’s wonderful Metro line. The Metro is a super cheap way to travel (only about $.10 a ride!) and pretty quick. However, avoid it at rush hours if possible! They get super crowded and even the babushkas will kick you around.

Overall, the most interesting part of the Metro, in my mind, would have to be the depth of the escalators at the Kreshatik stop. They go on forever… I mean… forever. If you don’t believe me, take a look at this video as proof. Enjoy!


Come On and Ride… from Brooke Schoenman on Vimeo.

April 6th, 2008

A bird pooped on me in YkpaiHa.

this is my rifle again.jpgUkraine (YkpaiHa) exudes all characteristics stereotypical of a former Soviet republic. The buildings, big and grand with gold domes, consume the otherwise stark landscape. The statues stand tall with bold features and some forceful pose. And the people… The people in Ukraine are such badasses! They drink a lot, smoke a lot, always wear red or black leather, and they never crack a smile.

When I decided to abandon the apartment I rented out my first night, a girl at the bus stop took me under her wing to get me to the metro. All the while I was thanking her and smiling, and it almost seemed that her face wanted to smile back, but just did not quite know how to flex the muscles in order to do so. I received a few slight, quick winces in return, but nothing more.

I had to run it through my head a few times that Ukraine has only recently been able to shake Soviet rule and is still recovering from those times. As a country, they are just now realizing they have the opportunity to make money off the tourist industry. For example, there are probably a total of 5 youth hostels in the entire city of Kiev, all of which are no competition to the wonderful hostels in Poland! A guy staying in my hostel now explained that just a few years ago, there were none. Perhaps the people here just don’t know how to react to foreigners, which would explain my metro-helper-girl’s inability to communicate with me expression-wise?

Overall, I think Kiev is fascinating. I’m slowly falling in love with the city, and slowly learning the Russian alphabet. Half of my day is spent trying to decipher signs – street signs, store signs, metro signs – and it’s revving me up for my Russian lessons fast approaching in Kyrgyzstan. So far, I’ve spent time learning about Chernobyl at the museum in town (I passed on the $180 tour to the actual city), and explored the WWII area. Patrick, a Canadian in my hostel who had spent the prior 6 days in town, showed me the ropes and introduced me to the best budget place for awesome Ukrainian-style food. I will probably eat there many times before I leave!

So you can also experience a little bit of the Soviet culture I’ve been taking in, I made a small video. Enjoy!


Soviet Style from Brooke Schoenman on Vimeo.

Oh, and somewhere along the way, a bird pooped on my backpack and shirt, which I was oblivious to until probably many hours later.

April 4th, 2008

1 Broken Ipod, a 20 Hour Bus Ride, and 6 Esperanto Speakers

transportation pictureTraveling in 2nd and 3rd world countries the past couple of months made me realize how much I love a good transportation system – you know, where a 20 minute flight doesn’t translate into a 12 hour drive. The few treacherously long journeys in southern Mexico left me feeling hot, tired, and nauseous, and without the help of some pink pills, I don’t know if I would have made it.

On the train back to Krakow, my Ipod shuffle battery went dead, so I made a mental note to charge it that night at the hostel in preparation for the 20 hour bus ride I booked the next day all the way to Kiev, Ukraine. After having it plugged in for a couple of hours, and the computer still not recognizing it, I got a little concerned. I updated iTunes and still nothing. I completely uninstalled and reinstalled iTunes, and all I could get was a few flashing yellow lights on the shuffle and no charge. I did a little research online and it appears I have the Ipod shuffle’s flashing lights of death. Ipod = Dead. What great timing! Just before an insanely long bus ride! Luckily I found that book store in Krakow that sells nothing but books in English and bought one called “Winter Under Water,” which is a lot about this guy dealing with love and a winter in Poland. I thought it was fitting to my previous 2 weeks in the country.

Boarding the bus on Sunday arrived one hour earlier thanks to European Summer time change overnight. The driver, speaking no English, escorted me to the back of the bus behind a nice Ukrainian couple, the lady of which turned to me and said I could ask her any questions if I had any. Turns out this lady actually teaches Russian for foreigners in Kiev. She and her husband were with four teen-aged children and were on their way back from Berlin where they took part in an Esperanto conference. She explained that Esperanto is a simple language that is hoping to become the language of the world. It has bits and pieces that everyone can understand and it has no IRREGULARS! Apparently, they have their own flag, and it is estimated that there are 100,000 – 2 million fluent speakers!
esperanto flag
The lady even spoke to me a bit in Esperanto and I completely understood it, and really, it just sounded like Spanish to me.

Crossing the border to Ukraine happened late evening, and would have happened sooner had the bus actually had a bathroom in it. Even the buses in Mexico had bathrooms. We stopped about every 2 hours for a bit for the driver to have coffee and for everyone else to pee. Even to that extent, I was surprised at one point when a girl asked for the driver to stop especially so she could pee and on the side of the road.

I noticed immediately a change in the environment after crossing. The cars all turned into the typical old Soviet style, and all the signs were in Russian – an alphabet that is truly foreign to my eye. At one stop, I had the driver help me find a bankomat so I could get the local currency. After that I used the restroom and almost walked into the men’s since I couldn’t read the writing! Luckily, I sort of remembered my Kyrgyzstan guidebook stating the women’s might be marked with that funny kriss-kross forward/backward K. At another stop, I bought a cold drink and a small Kinder Maxi chocolate bar for a total of 7.15 hry. The lady was asking if I had the 0.15 hry, which I didn’t, so out of a 10 hry, I ended up getting back 2.50 hry and a stick of gum. Guess that works out about right.

One of the teen-aged girls back on the bus asked me, in English, if I had some water. I did, but was going to save that for later since I was craving a cold, cold beverage at the moment. I asked her if she had a cup, which she responded “yes” to. I handed her my fresh, untouched bottle of water that she proceeded to rip open and drink directly from the spout, not withholding any sort of concern for germs or other people’s property. I cringed on the inside as she thanked me and handed it back. I get grossed out easily. I am a super germaphobe. I had no idea who this girl was, or where she came from. Sure, I had been using your mother (?) as a translator the entire ride, but still, that doesn’t give you the right to leave your slobber all over my stuff. Ew.

pinwheel over kiev

Twenty hours later, I arrived in Kiev. The nice Ukrainian family helped with a taxi to the apartment I was to be staying at that night. To make things more complicated, the girl forgot what day it was and wasn’t expecting me when I arrived. The taxi driver was more than helpful. I couldn’t tell if the tattoos he had on his hand were those from being in the military, or in prison. When things finally got situated, I immediately passed out in my private room.